COCO CHANEL was not known for her warm personality. But then, few were privy to the Coco that Douglas Kirkland saw in the summer of 1962. On assignment for Look magazine, the American photographer spent a day documenting the designer as she prepared for her couture show. The results, which are the subject of ''Mademoiselle,'' a new book published by Steidl, include expected images of her (striking a meditative pose, a Kent cigarette dangling from her mouth) and some rare moments of charm: smiling from behind a screen, joking with one of her models; sharing a cocktail with her staff.
''There are hardly any photos of her -- even when young -- with such a winning smile, with such a lightness in her expression,'' Karl Lagerfeld, who conceived and designed the book, writes in the foreword. ''It's a reduction of all cliches concerning Coco Chanel to immediate appreciation, sympathy and nearly cheerfulness.''
''Mademoiselle: Coco Chanel/Summer 62'' (Steidl), $45.